Paul Jaboulet Aîné Crozes-Hermitage “Domaine Mule Blanche” 2021

Winery Background and History

Founded in 1834 by Antoine Jaboulet, Paul Jaboulet Aîné is a renowned winery in the Northern Rhône Valley of France. Over nearly two centuries, the estate has built a reputation for producing exceptional wines, particularly from appellations such as Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage, and Cornas. In 2006, the Frey family, with a history in Champagne and Bordeaux, acquired the estate, ushering in a new era of quality and innovation. Under the leadership of winemaker Caroline Frey, Paul Jaboulet Aîné has embraced sustainable and biodynamic viticulture practices, enhancing the expression of their diverse terroirs. The estate’s commitment to excellence is evident in their meticulous vineyard management and winemaking techniques, resulting in wines that are both reflective of their origin and celebrated worldwide.

Producer and Winemaker

Caroline Frey, an accomplished oenologist, has been at the helm of winemaking at Paul Jaboulet Aîné since the Frey family’s acquisition in 2006. Her philosophy centers on minimal intervention and a deep respect for the environment, leading to the adoption of biodynamic practices across the estate’s vineyards. Caroline’s dedication to expressing the unique characteristics of each vineyard site has been instrumental in elevating the quality and reputation of the winery’s offerings.

Vineyards and Microclimate

The “Domaine Mule Blanche” is sourced from a 7-hectare plot in the heart of the original Crozes-Hermitage appellation, an area acquired by the Jaboulet family in 1834. The vineyards are situated on soils composed of rock debris from the river L’Isère, with a base of clay and limestone, providing excellent drainage and contributing to the mineral complexity of the wine. The vines, averaging over 60 years in age, benefit from a continental climate characterized by warm summers and mild winters. The significant diurnal temperature variation in this region aids in preserving acidity and developing aromatic complexity in the grapes. The estate practices biodynamic farming, allowing for earlier harvesting to maintain freshness and balance in the fruit.

Grape Varietals & Percentage Used

The 2021 “Domaine Mule Blanche” is a blend of 55% Marsanne and 45% Roussanne. 

Vinification & Aging Methods

The grapes are hand-harvested and undergo whole-bunch pressing to extract the juice gently. Fermentation is carried out using indigenous yeasts to preserve the natural expression of the terroir. The wine is aged in a combination of 55% French oak barrels (5% new), 25% small concrete eggs, and 20% stainless steel tanks. Malolactic fermentation is blocked, and no bâtonnage (lees stirring) is performed, aiming to retain freshness and purity in the wine. 

ABV (Alcohol by Volume)

Approximately 13%.

Tasting Notes

The 2021 “Domaine Mule Blanche” presents aromas of apples, lemon, white peach, and fresh stone minerals, complemented by white spice and lees complexities. On the palate, it is dry with a satin texture, fine tannins, and elevated acidity. Flavors of fresh citrus and white-fleshed orchard fruits are prominent, leading to a floral, saline, and lengthy finish. 

Food & Wine Pairing

This wine pairs beautifully with a variety of dishes, including pork, fish, cream-based sauces, spicy cuisine, chicken, pâté, shellfish, veal, crab, lobster, and Asian cuisine. Its bright acidity and mineral undertones complement these foods, enhancing their flavors without overpowering them. 

Service Methods and Temperatures

To fully appreciate its aromatic complexity and texture, serve this wine at a temperature between 10-12°C (50-54°F) in medium-sized white wine glasses. Decanting is not necessary; however, opening the bottle 15-20 minutes before serving can help the wine to open up and reveal its full spectrum of flavors.

Storage and Aging Potential

While approachable now, the 2021 “Domaine Mule Blanche” has the potential to develop additional complexity with cellaring. When stored in optimal conditions—away from light, at a consistent temperature of around 12°C (54°F), and with moderate humidity—it can evolve over the next 5 to 7 years, gaining in richness and depth.

Scores

Cameron Douglas MS awarded the 2021 vintage 92 points, noting its well-made, complex, and lengthy character with a floral saline finish.